By Remi Wyszynski
August 27, 2024
The Weather, a Fickle thing
Weather patterns in Tokyo can become erratic later in summer as Typhoon season kicks into gear. This is well-known to anyone who has suffered from guerilla-downpours we frequently get in the afternoons.
The ability to assess the weather is key when planning a multi-day sailing trip during such an unpredictable season. Captains familiar with the region are who you want to trust for a weeklong trip to the Izu Islands during the Obon holiday. I was aboard the sturdy Halcyon, a Hanse 34, captained by Darren Halliday, a seasoned long-distance race helmsman and avid fan of Niijima.
Sailing to Niijima
The crew of four, all experienced sailors, set off from Yumenoshima Marina to sail through the night to Shimoda. We planned to relax there before hopping-over to Niijima, our main attraction, to enjoy its beaches and locally caught sushi. However, three storm systems appeared in the forecast just east of Japan. Knowing that two would have already passed north of Tokyo, we decided to skip Shimoda and go directly to Niijima.
Getting there was an adventure. Sustained winds above 20 knots, choppy waves from all directions, and an outgoing tide made for an uncomfortable ride. Each wave crashing over the bow and spray into the cockpit elicited a cheer from the crew. All were in good spirits and having the time of our lives. At sunset, after passing Yokosuka, the seas calmed. Finally, at midnight, the wind died, and the motor was kicked into life, its steady hum accompanying us the rest of the way.
Night Sailing
Night sailing poses its own set of challenges. Large cargo ships are no longer easy to spot in the dark, and neither is a comparatively tiny sailboat. The night passed in shifts of three hours, each pair keeping an eye on the horizon. The waxing crescent moon illuminated the world like a minor sun, and I watched it set, burning a deep orange above the waves. Without the moon to outshine them, a magnificent spectacle of stars was revealed—one of the last places on earth where the night sky can be seen as it was millennia ago.
Morning announced itself with a slight fading of the stars and a brightening of the eastern horizon. We spotted the islands ahead: Oshima, Toshima, and finally Niijima—small mountains of greenery surrounded by the deep blue ocean. Arriving at port, we were greeted by a friendly crew offering help to tie up at the pier, a typical kindness in the cruising community. We quickly set up tarps for shade as the sun became unbearable, then plunged into the clear, inviting water. Lounging in the cockpit, we enjoyed the slight breeze, talking, laughing, and enjoying the camaraderie of the trip. Gazing into the water, we spotted a surprising diversity of sea life, including tiny squid, a puffer fish, and a red stingray.
The Island
Feeling hunger creep up, we left the quay and walked into town, following a nicely paved road along the coast. Stone statues of dolphins and faces provided a welcome distraction from the heat. We rented bicycles, making travel a breeze, and arrived at a local sushi restaurant notorious for long lines and limited stock. The chef only sells what he catches himself, and possibly due to the impending storm, the store was almost empty. A curious deviation from mainland sushi is the use of Karashi instead of Wasabi, a local adaptation due to the island’s lack of fresh running water.
The rest of our time was spent visiting the gorgeous beaches on both sides of the island, easily accessible by bicycle. The beaches of Niijima, with their white sand and crystal-clear water, transported me back to the Caribbean. After enjoying the sun, sand, and saltwater, we visited the free, open-air hot springs. The springs, built on a cliff overlooking the ocean and facing west, allowed us to relax together and watch the sun set.
Clean and fresh, we returned to Halcyon for dinner. A sailboat tied up nearby offered us a beautiful Kanpachi (yellowtail tuna) they had caught but couldn’t keep. Darren displayed his expertise, filleting and preparing the fish sashimi-style. Paired with a bottle of dry sake, the sashimi made for an excellent dinner to cap off the day. Tired from the sun and activities, we went to bed full and content.
Return to Home Port
The next morning began with freshly brewed coffee. Instead of the morning news, we checked the latest on the storm. It had strengthened into a low-grade typhoon and was now forecasted to arrive earlier than expected. Given the update, we decided to stay a final day on the island and leave after dinner, sailing directly back to Tokyo overnight.
The return was made under motor to outrun the storm. We took the east side of the island chain to catch the Kuroshio, a current that added two knots to our speed. We made quick time back to Tokyo Bay, arriving at Yumenoshima before 11 in the morning. The round trip consisted of just under 40 hours of sea time, traveling over 200 nautical miles. It was an experience that surpassed all expectations, enriching us with newfound friendships.
